Douro

Reluctantly left Porto and the campsite on the Atlantic to head inland. Loved Porto! Colourful, lively and interesting with not overwhelming numbers of aged tourists like us. Headed up the Douro, weaving from one side to the other. Fantastic views! Beautiful, awesome scenery. Spotted wineyards, but grapes picked for this year, unfortunately. Usual second breakfast in spot on the river, watching 2 large river cruise boats go by. Not much else on it, though lots of posh boats moored at different points. Climbed up northwards to lovely little sleepy town called Amarante and had lunch in quaint restaurant. Again lovely service, lovely food in good quantities and very reasonable. Continued on to large, historical town of Braga with its range of palaces and a cathedral. Obviously a place for the rich of the 18th century. Quaint streets and lovely cafes. Paid to go into cathedral to find full blown wedding in progress complete with opera singer and all the gorgeous, long evening frocks. The girls know how to put on a show. Blue suits seemed to be the in thing for men. Had a mouche around after wedding, then a bit of coffee and cake...there does seem to be a pattern to our eating..or Dave’s eating. Getting through my English tea bags though. Continued on north eastwards into the Serra Geres mountains. Nestled at the base a huge lake with canoes and paddle boats. It’s absolutely beautiful but big  temp swing from 30 in the day to 15 in morning, full mist at 8 am. Even had spot of drizzle while we ate in a rustic restaurant last night. Getting a good range of salads, Dave chose the salmon this time. Campsite high up in trees next to river above the valley. May stay 2 nights, but will then head for
Santiago and back to Spain.

Gaia

Cased the area yesterday and so up early and coastal road took us straight to Gaia on the opposite bank to Porto. Parked up and walked up hill and across the i conic King Luis 1 bridge, much cooler today a did walking tour of highlights before mass tourists arrived. Back to port lodges for our tour and tasting at Sandeman. Great chat over tasting to Canadian couple from Montreal. Chewed the fat over politics and motor bikes...he was a lifelong biker. Dave kept up to speed with English breakfast and local delicacy called “francisesco” bit like very rich cheese and steal to a tie in beer and chile tomato sauce. Nicki had Dave’s port. Back to campsite via a fab bird hide on bend in Douro. Last bit of sun on beach before pasta tea at camp. Onwards following small section of Douro tomorrow before Braga and the Serra Geres mountains. Running out of time!

O porto

Really sad to leave our special spot here in Costa Nova, but we must away. Spent morning in Aveiro doing the tourist bit with a ride on the canal boats..Molieros, bit like Venice. Very enjoyable. Tried to find “Biorio” a set of walks around river estuaries near the coat, but found the centre closed and the bird watching hide too dangerous! Portuguese don’t appear to take their bird watching/eco stuff as seriously as we do. So on toPorto. We came in south of the river where all the port “lodges” are. The view across to Porto was fab. Booked in for tour around the Sanderman’s lodge tomorrow...there all here, Taylor,Croft, Ofley and loads more. First across the river on this amazing bridge and a walking tour. Then back for the port tasting and tour before returning to the campsite and the wonderful Atlantic coastline.

Costa Nova

Our home for 3 days as extended stay so lovely. Got foot ferry over to other spit of land to go to bird reserve. Got there to find it was closed cos of risk of fire. Got ferry back and did leisurely meander along the 10 mile lagoon spotting birds. Heron city and a flock of flamingoes. Leisurely ride back to town for pics and fab sardine and salad lunch, 1 beer and water, 18  euros! Leisurely afternoon spent on fab beach watching waves in sun. Only 1 other couple for miles. Decided to watch sunset with picnic tea....leisurely.  Bit different to yesterday.  Move up the coast to Porto tomorrow.

Bike ride to Figuero da Foz

It seemed like a good idea. Flat roads around the coast. About 80 miles there and back. First 15 miles were great, then they became cobbled dirt tracks for 25 mikes. Not much fun on road bikes in baking heat. Joined up part of the way with another couple who were biking with hybrids and some luggage. Got there eventually. Very big resort. Huge empty beaches. Had good lunch then took normal roads most way back...very busy but good cycle lane. Absolutely. ..knackered...made it before sunset 7.30....just. Leisurely bird watching from boat on the lagoon tomorrow.

Aveiro

Stayed in a fab little pension in Mangueras for the night and had fab cod dish in lively little local bar. Woke early and decided after day before’s sweltering temp we needed to get to the coast again. So wound our way 15 miles of switchbacks, back over the mountain down to a fab delta area called Alveiro, nor far below Porto. The drive up the mountain was fab, in wonderful tree cover and Dave wished he’d got up earlier and cycled, reminded us of Stelio, but much prettier. Says he’ll come back with some mates and do it next year! Got to Aveiro and it is lovely, touristy, but very few tourists now. Campsite is way out on a spit if land right next to ocean, again hardly anyone. Got miles of beach almost to ourselves. Got to be most relaxing bit so far. Miles of flattish cycling for Nicki, dips in the Atlantic, thee really quaint striped houses and best of all boating on lagoons and bird reserves! Going to stay a few days. Oh and cake!

Manteigas

Ate at tent and enjoyed sunset outside and glass of wine. Sad to be leaving as great location,but getting too hot to walk here. Wonderful drive up to centre of Estrala, place called Manteigas. Large rural town spreading over the hillside based around river gorge. Very steep, hot, hard walk up to a spectacular waterfall. ...when there ' s water. Equally long descent. 5 hours in total! Treated ourselves to lovely lunch in only restaurant we could find open on Sunday. Stayed in little Pension...very portuguese and very reasonable. Heading to coast tomorrow as hoping sea breezes will help with heat.

Nazare seia

Must say Nazare too busy for us compared to other tiny resorts we went to on bike today. Made worse by a not so pleasant octopus salad which was all octopus and no salad! Left next morning to head inland for the mountains, although temperatures tipped to be up to 33 degrees! Visited Pombal for morning coffee and had a lovely tour up and down hill on which Coimbra rests. Streets, buildings very authentic, but university faculties at the top were very impressive, dating back to 16th century. Had lunch than onwards to edge of the Serrada Estrella for camping. Found an amazing small, rural site near to Seia. Wonderful, friendly atmosphere. Beautiful setting, greT facilities, very few campers. Next day did first mountain circular up into hills and along a levada. Quite hard climbing in places, but very rewarding views. Too hot! 33 so returned to camp after lunch for chill in the trees and the pool. Tomorrow across mountains to Manteigas and hopefully only 23 degrees.

Peniche to nazarre

Left early and headed for our cultural day inland. First, Bathalho Abbey, site of battle against the Spanish. Portuguese won so built an abbey to commemorate the main guy...can’t spell it, but seen the statue of him on his horse. Beautiful little town, magnificent abbey. Did the church but left a monastery tour for Tomar. Not very busy...Dave’s second breakfast then moved on up the road to Fatima. Wow!Apparently a very important Catholic modern pilgrimage site. The whole area was bigger than St Peters in Rome; modern circular church at one end, style of Billy Graham and more trad church at the other where the 3 girls who had their visions of the Madonna in 1910 are buried. In between, a vast square with huge open air alter. Dave wondered if anyone had checked the girls story to see if they’d made it all up!Then back to tradition and a magnificent castle and abbey to. Knights Templar in Tomar. We did the full tour inside this time...temp outside about 30 degrees! Finished in town of Leiria...had enough of castles for today and so headed to coast again and a much better, wooded campsite with pool outside Nazare. Got up this morning to mist and cycled a round trip along the coast...very undulating, but very satisfying 40 miles. By lunchtime, full sun as we ate cake in lovely little resort called San Marhino da Porte....absolutely gorgeous. This whole coastline is best ever for beaches, cafes and few hotels. Definitely want to come back here again. Going into Nazare tonight to eat out as did my pasta special(thanks Gill B) last night. Vino Verde is awesome.

Pinache-Obidos

Not impressed campsite last night at 20 euro no hot water, no toilet paper, 3 euro to park your car.  But onwards to surfing peninsula of Peniche. A basic municipal but hot water and 10 euros!  Cycled the peninsula and  along coast to surfing bay at Baleal.  It was beautiful.  Then got shower and on to Obidas for walk around castle walls. Return to Peniche for sardine supper. Nicki on the go as usual.

Lisbon-Sintra

Quite querky campsite.old fashioned paying for showers and no loo roll! But convenient for beaches and staff friendly and helpful. Up early, packed and in centre of old Lisbon for 10.30, parked and signed up for "free"  walking tour of Mouraria, the old moors district. Climbed to top of city for fab views. Decided to move on to Sintra, the town where the royals and wealthy built their palaces and Disney style houses. Again very hilly but we climbed up to the fairy tale Palace of Penna. It was just like a Disney set. Tuk Tuk driver too pity on us and gave us lift the last mile to top for free! By time we got down it was late and first 2 campsites not available. Eventually found place as about to go dark....cutting it a.but fine! So now it's unscripted and we head north towards Oporto. Weather much cooler. Only 18 degrees tonight.

Evora-Sesimbra

Stayed  in amazingly modern small campsite after leaving Elvas. Great facilities and only 10 euros. Only drawback it was next to busy road. We had an almighty thunderstorm overnight but we stayed dry. Temp eased a bit in morning to about 22 degrees, but rapidly climbed by the time we reached Evora. Enjoyed a morning walk around the medieval streets then moved on to the Tagus peninsula below Lisbon.  Struggled to find camping at first as 2 sites were closed but eventually found 1 inland from sea. Dropped down into Sesimbra for a lovely evening walk along Atlantic coast and enjoyed meal watching sun go down. Temp still in late 20's. Sunday morning sorted bike ride taking in lighthouse and another very ornate sacred church. Circuit involved some rough tracks but managed ok. Another night then over bridge onto Lisbon peninsula proper , making for Sintra. Everywhere quite quiet but great for us.

ELVAS

Left campsite and headed for Elvas. Decided more of interest there so wouldn't do Salamanca.  Best decision! After very cheap,  but protein filled breakfast in transport cafe, for Dave, we made 2 and 1/2 hours into Portugal. Elvas is a fortified town on a hill complete with.a 7 mile aqua duct straight into the top of the town and 2 very different hexagonal forts on surrounding hills. Very hot, 32 degrees but we climbed and descended the alleyways taking in the architecture and views.  Lovely lunch and then on towards Lisbon.  Campsite near to Evora, another stunning fortified roman medieval world heritage site for tomorrow.  Cooked the pasta pot tonight and sat out as it went dark . Temp 32 degrees now. Been up to 36 today. Luckily only about 29 predicted all week around Lisbon!

Burgos

Hotel just behind the port took a bit of finding...3rd floor of a very dark Spanish style apartment block. Room modest but adequate. Ate out and slept in a bed at last! Late start but good breakfast and temp already 22 degrees. Took scenic route to Burgos which was through the mountains. Burgos very pleasant. Picnic outside in cathedral square.  Cathedral was awesome. Never seen so much decoration and sculpted stone. Late afternoon set off for Salamanca and found a wonderful campsite just outside. Temperature 32 degrees so a swim in the outdoor pool was a must, then a meal in their terrace restaurant. Feels like Summer all over again!